The Ultimate Guide to Surf in the Mentawai

The Ultimate Guide to Surf in the Mentawai

by | Mar 1, 2019 | Outdoor Sports, Surf, Travel

The ultimate guide to surf in the mentawai

Close your eyes and imagine one of those photos and videos about the most perfect possible wave. No, it’s not a wave pool, or better, it is, but it’s a natural one.

The Mentawai Islands in Indonesia are renown worldwide among surfers for having the most perfect waves on Earth and they are immersed in such a beautiful tropical paradise that it looks almost unreal. 

The many legendary world-class breaks around Mentawai handle different swell and wind combination, which makes this area a year-round surfing destination for all surfing levels.

Where are the Mentawai:

The Mentawai Islands are a chain of about seventy idyllic tropical islands located approximately 150 km off the western coast of Sumatra in Indonesia.

They can be divided into three main surfing regions:

  • North Islands: The majority of the spots are located around the islets south of Siberut, in an area called Playground. This is also the most crowded region, due to the presence of many camps and easier accessibility from Padang via public ferries, but the variety and quality of waves are excellent.
  • Central Islands: push yourself a bit more south and get lost in paradise. Sipura is the main island and home of legendary waves as Lance’s Left and HT. 
  • South Islands: What you come for is Macas, the only wave in the Mentawai with limited access to a certain amount of surfers. This area is still very pristine and not so developed. Not a lot of charters push themselves until the far south and when they do surf sessions with your friends only are guaranteed.

Photos by Megan Costello  –  @avalanchevocals 

When to go:

Mentawai are a year-round surf destination due to their exposure and swell consistency. There isn’t a No time to go! Every season has something to offer. While low season (December to March) can be perfect for beginners and prime season (May to September) is the every charger dream (with average swells of 7ft, long periods and high percentage of forecasted 5 star rated days), Shoulder Months are the best pick for intermediate to advanced surfers that want to stay away from the crowds and still score fantastic waves!

How to get there:

Padang is the international airport where you would have to arrive. Daily flights land here from Kuala Lumpur and Jakarta. Garuda Indonesia is the best airline company based on punctuality and free surfboard allowance! Surf charters depart from Padang harbour during the late afternoon to undertake the crossing during the night. If you have chosen to stay in a land-based camp, Fast ferry boats leave the city of Padang every day. If you choose public transfer ferries try to do it on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays to get the best rates. Arrive in Padang the day before your Ferry departure day!

Getting Around:

Although dozen land camps have been established in the past few years and many more are planned, the best way to get around Mentawai is no doubt a charter boat. Long distance travelling is mainly done at night to be able to be at the surf spot already at dawn. All charter boats have a dinghy to drop you on and off the surf spot. Surf charters offer unrivalled flexibility to be in the right place at the right time and to surf from dawn to dusk.

What is the Mentawai Tax:

To surf in the Mentawai you need to pay a Tax. The Mentawai Tax has been introduced by Mentawai’s governor to benefit the local community and it requires each surfer to pay 1 Million Rupiah (around US$75) upon visiting the region. The tax lasts for 15 days, but it’s extendable, in case you want to stay longer. The Tax has been thought to improve management of carrying capacities of surfers in each region, reduce overcrowding, and improve the overall experience of visiting surfers.

Handy Hints:

Bring spare equipment

Spare surfboards, tropical wax, leashes, fins, ding repair kit are an essential here! Remember that you will be in a remote area, there are no shops around here!  Do not forget the sunscreen and even a surfing hat for the hottest hours!

Disconnect from the world!

Phone signal and internet are very rare and limited too few resorts or areas only. What a better way to rest your mind from the busy city life? We are for surfing and we can post that barrel surf pic on Instagram once we are already on our way home

Find a group of your same level! 

The Mentawai Islands are a surfing paradise and offer waves for every surf skill and taste! Once there you really want to surf the best suitable wave for your expectation and don’t want to find yourself watching the others getting barrelled in triple overhead sets or, opposite, have to surf mellow longboard waves if you went to score! Try to find out the level of the group and join accordingly.

Better with big waves! 

Don’t be scared of big waves. Having a big swell means that all spots are working, so many more options for everyone and fewer crowds! Small days can mean a bunch of surf charters surfing the same swell magnet spot!

Respect the surfing etiquette!

Be friendly and respect others! We have all travelled a long way to score these perfect waves!

The most famous WAVES (from South to North!)

 

The Hole:

Gnarly left mincing machine, it starts barrelling off the take-off and never really stops until the closeout section. The Hole needs very specific conditions to make it safe enough to surf.

Thunders:

Named for the raising noise it makes, it’s the most consistent left in the Mentawai and it’s always bigger than how it looks. Nice and deep at all time, it’s at the same time powerful and heavy and requires a bigger board to make the drop.

Roxies:

Forgiving and heavy at the same time, this fun right-hander breaks in deep water on a flat reef and delivers proper open barrels when it gets overhead.

Greenbush:

Super hollow left for tube masters only! It’s fast and shallow, needs a lot of speed and commitment to make it out!

Macaronis:

Voted the most rippable and funniest wave in the world, Macas Left is a machine, predictable, perfect and challenging at the same time!

Lance’s Left:

The sister of HT is a long left that delivers some barrels and thrilling rides with overhead swells.

HT:

Hollow Tree or Lance’s Right is the classic Mentawai right barrel, mechanically perfect. Be careful in the inside, where the shallowness of the Surgeon Table awaits.

Scarecrowds:

Left-hander with different sections, fun rippable and wedgy alike with plenty of water depth.

Telescope:

World-class left-hander with a steep take-off that allows you to enter in a flawless tube. It’s predictable, deep and long, suitable for intermediate and advanced surfers alike.

Iceland:

Named so for the watercolour after the wave breaks leaving a fizz of air bubbles in the water, Iceland is powerful and moody and delivers a cavernous barrel when the swell is big. When everywhere else is flat, here you will still find a rippable wall.

Rifles:

Race on the most perfect right of the Mentawai, or even of the world. Rifles it’s all about hollow barrels and straight-line speed!

A Frames:

Short right and playful left in a beautiful set up right in front of an idyllic island.

4 Bobs:

Fun right-hander for the less intrepid surfers, with a whackable wall and deep water.

No Kandui:

Probably the most difficult and technically demanding left in the Mentawai, No Kandui is super fast and works better with large swells. You will be rewarded with the best barrel of your life if you have the guts to paddle for it!

Bankvaults:

Fear-inducing right-hander for chargers only, it gets better when it’s double overhead.

Nipussi:

Juicy right-hander that gets the end of Bankvaults swell train. It breaks in deep water and produces barrels even in a very little swell.

Hideaways:

Big, hollow and shallow, this intimidating left-hander is suitable for advanced surfers only and change its shape depending on tide and swell.

Burgerworld:

Point break right-hander with a long workable wall. It’s a swell magnet and you always find a wave here even when everywhere else is flat. No words can describe the beautiful background making this the perfect spot for the classic Indo photos.

Pitstops:

Laid-back vibes for this super fun right-hander that breaks over flat reef and sands for over 100 mt. Perfect wave to practice manoeuvres and eventually a little cover-up.

Ebay:

Spectacular and barreling world-class left with a vertical drop and a race to the exit. Short but spice ride, bigger the swell, better it gets. Watch out from the two rocks in the inside.

Beng Bengs:

Friendly and playful left-hander mechanical and rippable that works with all sizes also when other waves are not on. Best at low tide, watch out for the sharp reef on the inside!

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Bali off the beaten tracks: Amed

Bali off the beaten tracks: Amed

by | Feb 7, 2019 | Travel

Bali off the beaten tracks: Amed

More and more people are heading to Bali nowadays, who for surfing, who to practice yoga, many to drink Bintang at the beach. As a result, the West Coast is getting crowded and touristic, new buildings pop up every day, taking the place of the beautiful rice paddies. This can dissuade people who are looking for a bit more of authenticity to visit the island. However, there are still many pristine places in Bali which are completely different from the famous Kuta and Seminyak.

As it has rained quite heavily lately and the surf isn’t expected to be that good, I decide to go on a weekend mission and to cross all Bali by scooter to find a bit of peace. I leave Canggu on a solo mission on Saturday early morning to avoid the morning traffic when passing through Denpasar. Some roads are flooded, but this doesn’t stop me to go ahead.  Denpasar is quite crazy, very busy for sure, as all Asian big cities, but charming somehow. If you plan your departure time well, you will not get stuck in the traffic and you will arrive quite easily to the East Coast and from here, up to Sanur, Keramas, Padang Bai etc, all the way to Amed.

There are different ways to get to Amed and I decide to pass from the mountains and visit a couple of temples on the way.

On my way, I stop to visit 2 temples, Tirta Gangga and Pura Penataran Agung Lempuyang. Honestly, the first one is lovely, the second one probably worth it if you are planning to climb the 1700 steps to reach the top (which I don’t have time to do as time runs fast and I want to reach Amed for lunchtime). If you go there for the famous Heaven’s Door, prepare to get disappointed. These are pretty much a tourists trap, with an hour line to get the famous Instagram shot and, if you are lucky, Mount Agung is not covered by clouds. I take a photo of the doors with a random person in it and I hit the road again.

4 hrs after my departure from Canggu, I finally arrive in Amed. The town is so simple and so lovely! Forget the busy beaches of West Bali. Here you will be able to find silence and quietness, all for yourself.

I have lunch at the beach. The reef is right in front of the warungs, the snorkelling is beautiful, I spot many colourful fish and even a sea snake (no, it’s not dangerous, but I swim in the opposite direction anyway). I spend my afternoon chilling and swimming, resting from the long trip. The sunset from the beach is absolutely gorgeous. The top of Agung, which has been covered by clouds all day long, finally opens and shows up to the few spectators, the majority of them are locals. Few Bule’ (western people as Indonesian call them) have organised a beach cleaning and involve all local kids as well. That fulfils my heart of joy! It’s time for sensibilisation in Indonesia and also this far end of Bali has a bunch of trash spread everywhere.

I spend my night at Oasis hotel and I have a delicious seafood dinner at Warung Enak. Time for me to go sleeping even if quite early, I want to see Agung in the morning before the clouds come up and do some more snorkelling.

The morning is sunny, the mountains behind Amed stop the perturbation and the rain and the weather is always better than in other parts of Bali (really good escape for rainy season days). I pack my stuff and back on the road to get to Jemeluk View Point, just a km south the coast. The view from there is absolutely stunning, there is a lovely warung where you can go for lunch or sunset/dinner. It is still close when I arrive but I sit on the steps and admire the surrounding panorama. The water is crystal clear, I can see the reef underneath, the sand of the beach is so black due to the volcanic activity and in sharp contrast with the white local boats, so well maintained. The jungle is green and wild. Mount Agung is powerful and shows his magnificence on the background.

I drive south, in 15 minutes I arrive at the spot where there is a Japanese Shipwreck 5 meters from the shore and you can easily snorkel.

The trash abounds, but it’s also because of the trash that heaps of fish come around. The coral is growing everywhere, the quantity and colourfulness of fish are unbelievable. It’s the first time I snorkel on a shipwreck, there aren’t so many so shallow and easy to reach.

The trip is still long, I am back on the road, this time I drive down the coastline and surprisingly the coast is not flat as in the West: the road is all an uphill/downhill, inland/cliff, no tourists around, just chickens and pigs, local people living in a countryside rural life, that fulfil my trip with smiles and greetings! The road is narrow, the edges are steep, the landscape is gorgeous, I cannot believe something like this still exists in Bali.

Travel tips:
  • No matter if friends do not join. Go on a solo mission, you will feel much more the welcome of local people, you will be also more keen to communicate.
  • Select a playlist for your trip. Find mine here:
  • Service your bike before departing, you don’t want to break down in the middle of nowhere.
  • Bring your snorkel gear!
  • Pack light! You don’t need much over there!
  • Upload your google maps when you have a phone connection
  • Bring a portable charging device (I had to stop for one hour to recharge my phone as I didn’t have one)
  • Bring your camera
  • Bring a Raincoat (poncho) always with you when driving in Bali, no matter if it’s the dry or wet season.
  • Be flexible with your schedule!

I have taken this trip quite in a rush since I had just 2 days to do it, but I strongly recommend to spend a few days in Amed, join a free-diving course and snorkelling trips and enjoy the peace!

Hit me up for Customised Bali trips!

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Taiwan: a surfing well-kept secret

Taiwan: a surfing well-kept secret

by | Dec 3, 2018 | Outdoor Sports, Surf, Travel

Taiwan: a surfing well-kept secret

For all the adventurous surfers who are willing to push their limits a bit further, Taiwan is still a pristine waves heaven! 

Are you full?

Yes, I am full.

That’s the way Taiwanese people will ask you if you are doing well. They definitely like eating and I could see that when Oma, my indigenous friend and surf guide, ordered a portion of buffalo enough to fulfil an entire family with ten kids. We were just three thought, the food was delicious, we didn’t make it to the line up afterwards.

There are 14 aboriginal tribes in Taiwan. Oma comes from Amis. They do eat all the part of the animal and no kidding: on the table, there was not only the intestine but even the heart of the buffalo. Worth a try, not my favourite, but I am still trying to do what locals do, as I think I would like people to do the same in my country and not be fussy in picking their food.

Taiwan, a very interesting country. Have you ever thought to go there? Personally not. It’s not one of those classic destinations in the bucket list of normal travellers or, even less, surfers.

Local people barely speak English, well they actually don’t speak English at all: the majority of tourism there is still Chinese, no matter the ban from the Chinese Government not to travel to Taiwan, who was emitted loudly a few years ago, and silently revoked! Taiwanese still smile all the times and try to ask you questions, even if they don’t understand the answers. Google translate is a good way for quick communication.

Everyone speaks Mandarin. I have been told that you need to know at least 300 symbols to be able to start a conversation, 1,000 to speak already quite fluently. It’s all about logic, each symbol is a syllable. Combining syllables you obtain words. Sounds a freaking mess right? I guess it is!

Taiwanese Street Food: a must try! But what about Stinky Tofu?

Night markets offer the greatest variety of products and dishes. The stinky tofu is a classic. Gorgonzola and Blue Cheese are nothing comparable, I swear. You kind of want to try it (I told you, I always want to try everything), but this was just too much. I couldn’t do it. The smell actually remained in my nostrils for a few days. Better opt for a classic: dumpling, chicken, fish soup, Taiwanese bbq and much more on offer in the street stands!

Are there waves in Taiwan? I would rather say no to keep those gems secret and uncrowded. But the truth is yes, the waves are absolutely amazing, with a huge variety all over the coast, from river mouths to point breaks, reefs and beaches.

The cobblestones are pretty much everywhere. They sound like a twinkle when you put your head under the water to duck dive. A unique feeling for your ears, like in a fairy tale. The watercolour can be stunning too unless it has just rained the day before (then it get pretty nasty). The peaks change their colour, the turquoise/aquamarine green is in sharp contrast with the grey that comes from the river.

If you are lucky enough to get a typhoon swell with the right wind direction, you might score the waves of your life..by yourself of course!

Keep in mind that waves have no easy access and are not often easy to find. If you really want to get the best out of it, go on a surf tour with local experts! I went surfing with Virginia and James of Surf Travel Taiwan and absolutely liked their services and local knowledge.

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Bula Vinaka – Sail and Surf in Fiji

Bula Vinaka – Sail and Surf in Fiji

by | Oct 30, 2018 | Outdoor Sports, Surf, Travel

Bula Vinaka – Fijian sailing diaries

Bula Vinaka! This is how Fijian people welcome you on their islands with a big smile on their face. It’s hard to believe that less than 200 years ago this population of kind people were eating each other! Luckily, the arrival of missionaries stopped this era of cannibalism. Today Fiji is a long way from its, sometimes, brutal past.

We are still alive though: no arm missing, no human bbq, few sharks spotted, some reef cuts, quite a few broken boards, world-class waves, a lot of laughter, many shooting stars, and heaps of dreams coming true.

We boarded on Fantasea, our sailing boat for the next week, feeling a bit like pirates when the sail raised and our journey began. The cross from Nadi to Mamanucas took a couple of hours. It is not so long, probably way faster with a speedboat, but we enjoyed the scenery, felt the wind caring our hair and we slowly reached one the of every surfer dream waves: Cloudbreak.

Cloudbreak, Cloudy as locals call it, is one of the 10 Best/Most challenging waves in the world. It’s fast, shallow and hollow. It breaks in the middle of nowhere, in an outer reef recognisable just from a wooden tower that was built right in front of the wave, for spectators (arriving by boat on high tide only) who would like to see the show. Cloudy is sketchy, charming and perfect at the same time.

When we arrived the swell was still small (1-2 ft means head high there), the waves were fun, the water crystal clear, turtles and colourful fish swam around us all day.

The wind was still on. The trade winds are quite disturbing and strong during the surfing season here. The waves are very exposed, but if you are lucky and the wind swings in the right direction, then you will score.

We spent quite a few days in Cloudbreak, the swell was picking up slowly, which meant more challenging sessions, day after day.

On my fourth session, I ended up with a broken board and a black eye from the hit. Time for me to enjoy the show and watch the guys scoring probably the biggest waves of their life. We surfed many more waves on the rest of the trip. The area of Mamanucas includes other fantastic breaks as Restaurants, Swimming Pools, Wilkes, Tavarua Right, Namotu Left and Desperation. The distance from one wave to the other is short, the reef is always sharp, the water always clear and the underwater world always alive.

I hope to have made you dream a bit. So, here are some personal tips to make the best of your trip:

  • Get on a boat and enjoy the sailor life. You can get off in some islands, which are not completely private, but being in the water is the best way to move around. We sailed on Fantasea and had a great time!
  • Find a good crew. Sharing a boat can be tough if you are doing it with the wrong persons. Find a group of friends with your same surfing level and depart for the trip of your dreams. Our crew was very mixed and we had the best time! We were 2 Italians, 2 Argentinian, 1 German, 1 Swedish, 1 Hawaiian and 1 Hungarian.
  • Pamper yourself with a bit of relaxation in one of the amazing resorts of the archipelago. My personal favourite: Six Senses Fiji
  • Try Kava. This is a unique and traditional Fijian experience. The drink itself is special, but even more special is the ritual ceremony that it involves.
  • Explore the next level of tastes with the local cousin. My favourite: Kokoda (Fiji’s version of ceviche, enriched with coconut milk)
  • Interact with people: Fijian people are amazing, they always smile and really want to be your friends. They all speak really good English, and they love to share moments and experiences!
  • Don’t forget to purchase travel insurance, better safe than sorry!

 

Photos by Balint Hambalko

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Panama: not only a fiscal paradise

Panama: not only a fiscal paradise

by | Oct 10, 2018 | Travel

Panama: not only a fiscal paradise

Renown worldwide as a fiscal paradise, Panama has much more to offer than tax-free investments and money laundering.

From coffee plantations to unspoiled white beaches, from turquoise water to perfect barreling waves, the Country is pure beauty and diversity.

I lived in Panama for a while, working here and there, surfing a lot (as always) and exploring the country. I fell in love with the warmth of people, the way they talk and laugh, with the smell of the culantro early in the morning, when everyone prepares the typical soup sancocho to feed the whole family for the day, with looking for constellations in a sky untouched by light pollution, with scoring uncrowded barreling waves, with moving around on the back of a pick up, with the wilderness and an ecosystem full of biodiversity.

I would like to share with you my “must go” places, my favourites, the ones that I will always keep in my heart.

Panama City: everyone calls it “La Ciudad” or “PTY”, as the international airport. It’s the centre of Latin music scene, trades and history.

Everyone listen to reggaeton, all people dance, they have the rhythm inside. With its nameless roads, PTY is a city full of diversities: you can run in the Ocean Drive Miami style, step into the historical Casco Viejo, grab some fresh ceviche at the Mercado de Mariscos, visit the Panama Canal and find out the crazy mechanism that joins two oceans.

Magnolia Inn Hotel, located in the heart of the Old Town, is the perfect base to explore the area. The hotel is housed in a refurbished French-style colonial manor and offers either private and shared rooms.

Bocas del Toro: Caribbean Paradise: Surf, Dive and Explore!

Dreaming about a desert white beach, kind of a postcard of Caribbean? Here you are!
Houses have stilts over the water, the ocean is clear turquoise, food is delicious, the party is crazy, the waves are epic. Does it seem a paradise? It is!

The main island is Isla Colòn, home of the “biggest” town and of the centre of Bocas. On the opposite side on the urbanization, there is the world famous Playa Bluff, with its shore fat slab (be careful if you are not an experienced surfer) and Playa Estrella, named so from the massive gorgeous starfish which you can see without the need to dive.

Isla Careneros and Isla Bastimentos are much wilder islands, covered by palm trees, surrounded by great waves for all levels.

If you are on a budget and looking for nightlife and meeting new people, then Selina Bocas del Toro is the place where you want to stay. Do you want to get away from the hustle and enjoy the island life in comfort? Red Frog Beach Island Resort in Bastimentos is what you are looking for.

Santa Catalina: walk up and down the hills surrounded by fields to reach world-class waves or dive in the ex-prison of Isla Coiba, a wild and marvellous national park.

No internet, no phone signal. Or better, you can find some signal while walking up the hills to reach the surfing beaches. Santa Catalina still remains a rural place, very authentic and characteristic, and home of the world-class wave La Punta. The area is also famous for the great biodiversity of Isla Coiba, a National Park where, long time ago, the most feared criminals were put in prison (the island was in fact really difficult to reach and impossible to escape from as it was surrounded by big marine predators, like sharks and crocodiles).

Vila Coco, new boutique hotel, offers stylish and comfortable rooms just a short walk from the waves!

Boquete: hippie trekkers and bohemian artists meeting point!

You will fall in love with Boquete, its bohemian atmosphere, its chilled weather (it’s not really chilled but for sure much colder than any other place in Panama).

Hike Volcan Baru, discover trails to hidden waterfalls, learn the secrets of coffee plantations, try to spot the quetzal, go rafting and horse riding. One of my favourite things I have done in Boquete is a course of wood carving! You can ask about it at Arte Hostal, that would organize everything for you directly with David and his dad!

Playa Venao: half moon bay, black sand, barrels and wildlife.

Venao is my special place. No words can describe the beauty of this black beach. It is the tropical surfing beach of my dreams, where everyone in the lineup is super friendly and chilled, where you can let free your artist inspiration, where the sunsets are unique and people from all over the globe reunited. It still remains a niche for a few adventurous surf passionate, who do not care about technologies or amenities. Waves in the bay are unreal! In front of the river mouth, a right hander unrolls in perfect barrels, holding up big swells, at its best with incoming and outgoing tide.

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