Breath holding and Surf survival apnea
It’s not physical, just psychological. No, you are not drowning. Stop be scared and get out there!
I have always been a bit scared about the idea of having long hold downs while trying to chase bigger waves and getting smashed and dragged down and more down. The movie Chasing Mavericks already put in my mind the idea of breath training, but somehow I related it to very big waves, definitely not what I was going for. But you actually don’t need to chase 30-foot face waves to find an excuse to learn how to manage your breath. So, I have decided to attend a Surf Survival Apnea Course. Since then, I haven’t had the feeling of being about to die under the water anymore. And I have also decided to surf bigger waves!