Inspirational Women Surfers

Inspirational Women Surfers

INSPIRATIONAL WOMEN SURFERS

In a surfing scenario still quite dominated by men, year after year I see more girls in the line-up and the surfing level of women, in general, is getting really high!

Having girls in the water is a game-changer. It changes the whole session mood: more smiles and more respect for everyone!

Many times I have found myself as the only girl in the line-up with a bunch of guys (the majority of whom ripping) fighting to catch a few waves, doubting about my level or asking myself why I was the only girl there.

Well, as soon as I see another female face in the water, smiling at me and cheering me up, the whole session becomes funnier, I gain more confidence and catch more waves!

And of course, I love to watch videos of women surfing and get inspired by them! Here are my personal favourites: each of them has something special and inspire me in different ways.

Stephanie Gilmore – pure style

The way she flows is unique. Stephanie is probably the most elegant surfer you are gonna see out there. No matter if she is charging a big barrel or playing with her twin fin on a knee-high wave, her flow is incredibly clean, her style is supreme and she is the real shred queen. 

Watching her surfing just make you wanna grab the board and have fun in the water. She is always smiling and enjoying the ride as much as she can. 

7x World Surfing Champion, these achievements are just the demonstration of her undiscussed talent.

Laura Enever – the charger

Laura is a badass chick. With a great sense of humour and love for life, her surfing is all about adventures and challenges. She pushes her limits where many guys do not and she is truly inspiring.

Famous for her fearless big waves surfing, her latest documentary Undone shows the ride of some of the gnarliest and most dangerous waves in remote Australia.

She is definitely not a faint of heart and she is really empowering women to push their limits and boundaries for thrill and adrenaline.

Carissa Moore – perfect technique

When someone says there are still differences in surfing between men and women I just bring Carissa as a perfect example that it’s not like that.

Last October I was in the water with her at Honolua Bay (she probably won’t remember hahaha). She was charging at the Cave, always with a smile on her face and she really looks like a super nice kind-hearted person. Pure positive vibes!

Her surfing technique is absolute perfection. If you pay attention to the details of her manoeuvres performance you barely find flaws, her style is smooth and her wave reading impeccable. 

Bethany Hamilton – the warrior

Survivor of a shark attack at the young age of 13 yr, Bethany made her dream of becoming a pro surfer come true no matter what.

Even without her left arm, her surfing is amazing, she charges big waves and she is one of the strongest person and athlete ever. She knows what she is doing out there and she even surfed Pipeline while pregnant!

Nothing could limit her on her goals and purposes and she has become a true inspiration for many people and an example of resilience, strength of will and mental power. 

Sally Fitzgibbons – health and fitness queen

Altruistic and energetic, Sally reminds everyone of the importance of effective training behind great performances. She is strong, fit and powerful in the water.

Sporty since early ages, she ran to gold medals in the 800m and 1500m at the Youth Olympics in 2007 and then became a professional surfer in the WSL.

She is an inspiration not only between the surfing community but also all the whole Australian people. She shares her knowledge about health through targeted fitness programs, cooking recipes and healthy lifestyle tips.

Would you like to join us on a girls-only surf trip?

Morocco: the land of the right-hand point breaks

Morocco: the land of the right-hand point breaks

Morocco: the land of the right-hand point breaks

Traditions and modernity perfectly mix in this incredible country famous for its perfect long right-hand point breaks, where teas and flavours spice up your days!

As you soon as I get off the plane in Agadir I can smell Africa. The perfume of the spices fills up the air and the desert gets in my lungs and in my heart. I am driving along the coast to get to the surf town of Taghazout. I can see from my window the perfect lines coming from the open ocean to meet up with the rocky coastline creating those perfect right-handers this area is famous for.

I have been to this place in many occasions, but I am always stoked of how many different experiences I get every time I am here. This is actually my first trip during the peak of the winter swell season. The forecast looks good and the froth is high. I spend my last years dreaming about surfing these waves and still can’t believe I have finally made it! Luckily I brought my step-up surfboard along and now I just need to get into the mind-set of “being ready to charge”!

From Imsouane to Anza, a great variety of waves for all surfing levels!

Well, of course, to enjoy surfing Morocco at its best a bit of surfing experience is required. The world-renown Anchor is not a wave for everyone, especially when it gets double over-head. The competition is high. Many Moroccan surfers are shredding out there and surfers from all around the world come to chase it when it’s on!

Killers (my personal favourite) requires a long paddle to get out there and clean up sets are pretty much guaranteed in this swell magnet spot. Many people think it’s called Killers because it’s gnarly and gnarly it is! But the actual name comes from the fact that Killer Whales used to show up here at this spot, right in front of the cliff.

A good thing about this region is that point breaks work mainly on low tide and beach breaks on high tide! Anza is a great alternative for a different session! There is always a wave here even in the smaller days) and it’s super fun!

For beginner surfers, Crocs and Camel Beach deliver super fun easy waves where to practice your take-off and improve your skills and, up north, Imsouane is what every longboarder has always dreamt of!

When to go and what to do apart from surfing?

If you are an experienced surfer you want to visit Morocco in the winter season November to March! This is when the famous points turn into life and will deliver some of the best waves of your life. Be prepared for cold water (you would need a wetsuit, 4/3 for the less brave ones like me and 3/2 if you are already used to a bit of chill in the water), but nice air temperatures around 20 degrees Celsius and the famous mint teas will warm you up after the session! Outside the main season, there are still waves in Morocco! Swell magnet beach breaks North of Taghazout and South of Agadir are offering great waves during the summer months and Taghazout area is still alright for first-time beginner surfers!

When you are not surfing there are plenty of things to do and places to visit! A walk into Taghazout town during sunset hours is an experience not to be missed as some shopping time at Agadir Souk! On Wednesdays, the local market of Aourir (aka Banana Village) is wonderful (best place to buy dry fruits and spices)! Stop in the Mini Sahara on your way to Imsouane and jump from one of the rocks of the gorgeous Paradise Valley, an oasis in the middle of the desert and mountains!

Tips and tricks for an unforgettable trip!

Rent a car!

There is no better way to explore the area than having your own independent transportation. Don’t be shy and take that small dirty road that will take you to the most amazing corners!

Eat like a local!

Morocco is actually so organised. As soon as you get out of the water you will find in the car park many people selling mint tea, donuts, raspberries, crepes and other delicious stuff!

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Save Jaws: Swimming with Sharks in Hawaii

Save Jaws: Swimming with Sharks in Hawaii

Save jaws: swimming with sharks in hawaii

Swimming with sharks in North Shore Oahu: a great experience to raise awareness about the fact that sharks are not monsters but apex predators.

The sun was rising over the range of the North Shore and my heart was beating fast when we left the harbour in Haleiwa. “Am I crazy?” I thought. I was going to free diving with sharks. What does this mean? No cage, open ocean, wild sharks. Which type of sharks? Well, it depends on which ones show up. Can be Sandbar, Galapagos, Tiger or even Great White. It’s pure wilderness and so, unpredictable.

When we arrived miles away from shore and we stop the boat engine, several Galapagos and Sandbar sharks surrounded us. We located in a deep channel when the sharks use to rest after the dawn hunting action. They were so elegant and all the fear was suddenly replaced by pure charm for these creatures and a great excitement to get in the water with them.

Was it scary? Not at all! It was like being in a live nature documentary and it’s gorgeous to watch this animals behave in their natural habitat.

We free dived with 8-10 Galapagos sharks of 4 to 12 ft of length. The dominating female was pretty big and was swimming closer to the surface compared to the other smaller sharks to establish the hierarchy in the group. It’s very important to keep eye contact with the sharks to make clear that we are not preys and to always stay above them to establish our hierarchy too. Sharks were actually not really interested in us, but they got pretty excited when a school of tunas made its appearance and some little victims got in the mouth of the Galapagos. That was actually super exciting to watch and will definitely remain as one of the most wonderful experiences of my life.

I joined the Pelagic Shark Program with One Ocean Diving, the research educational company run by sharks conservationist Ocean Ramsey and sharks photographer Juan Oliphant. All the researchers and guides of One Ocean Diving are really passionate about sharks and about what they do. They share knowledge and help people to better understand sharks and safely interact with them.

Sharks are often defined as monsters, but they are not. It’s sad to see how they have been demonised and for this reason culled. It’s time to share knowledge and protect them!

Did you know that every year there are more victims due to coconuts falling compared to sharks attack? But still, sharks represent one of the most threatened marine animals on the planet. Their number has declined by approximately 90%, and if we continue on the current path many species will go extinct very soon. As apex predators, they play a key role in maintaining the health, biodiversity, and productivity of the ocean.

One of the biggest things we can do to help is taking action in our daily life to be conscious consumers. Don’t support businesses that sell shark or shark derived products like shark meat, cartilage, shark fin soup, shark leather, teeth, pet products, etc. Support sustainable fisheries rather than commercial sources. We would also need the state governments to ban the right to fish for sharks recreationally and commercially, as well as to ban the selling and shipping of sharks, shark products and their fins.

We really need a global perception change for those gorgeous creatures!

Sharks were not interested in us at all, however please keep in mind that they are still wild animals. Make sure you purchase your travel insurance before taking part on this experience.

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Mount Ijen – hiking inside an active volcano crater

Mount Ijen – hiking inside an active volcano crater

Mount IJEN: Hiking inside an active volcano crater

How far would you push your limits? This time we have chosen a really extreme adventure and hiked in the middle of the night to get inside an active volcano crater in Java (Indonesia) and see the unique Blue Fires!

It’s midnight and the alarm rings! Time to put some warm clothes on and wake up after this few hours of sleep. After a short 4×4 drive we are at the bottom of Mount Ijen and ready to start our 2 hrs night hike towards the 2,799 mt volcano peak guided by the stars, few torches and other many tourists. Our guide tells us that the hike is for beginners, but some passages are steep and the more we get close to the volcano, the more the sulfur smokes make our ascend hard! At 3/4 of the hike we need to wear gas masks cos the toxic smokes are surrounding us and it’s hard to breathe. The wind is on and the smoke moves around in every direction.

We finally arrive at the top and here starts the toughest part of our hike: the descend inside the crater of this active volcano! Something like this would probably be forbidden in any first-world country with some kind of security measures, but here we are in Indonesia and whatever attracts tourists (and money) is welcome!

Blue Fires: one of the most spectacular and most unique wonders of nature in the world!

A 45 minutes hike down brings us to the most stunning views I have ever seen in my life: the Blue Fires! This electric-blue flame of Ijen is ignited sulfuric gas which emerges from cracks at temperatures up to 600 Celsius degrees. When these ignite enter Earth’s oxygen-rich atmosphere burn and generate flames that can reach the 5 meters of height. This is the largest blue fire area in the world and the lake inside the crater is the largest highly acidic crater lake on the planet due to its high sulfuric acid concentration (the PH is 0.5 only!). The turquoise-blue caldera lake is one kilometre wide and 200 meters deep. The colour of the water is a result of its extreme acidity and a high concentration of dissolved metals. 

The volcano remains active: the last magmatic eruption occurred in 1817. The latest phreatic eruptions occurred in the recent 2001 and 2002. These have caused very little damage but present a danger to anyone mining sulfur or visiting the caldera.

The local heroes: the sulfur miners

We thought to be tough athletes after the hike, but there is no space for pride in Ijen. The real heroes here are the miners.

They walk up the flank of the mountain and then descend dangerous rocky paths down the steep walls of the caldera, making space through the hundreds of tourists. Then, using steel bars, they break sulfur from an outcrop, load their baskets, and make the return trip to the refinery.

They break their back carrying  80-90 kgs of sulfur up 300 metres to the crater rim, with a gradient of 45 to 60 degrees and then 3 kilometres down the mountain. Most miners make this journey twice a day. The paid is as little as 1,000 IDR per kg, which means just very few cents.

Sulfur mining at Ijen has its hazard: the steep paths are dangerous, the sulfur gases are poisonous, and occasional gas releases or phreatic eruptions have killed many miners. 

Exhausted after the whole night walking? No worries, we got you covered!

Hiking a volcano from 1 am to 8 am is definitely exhausting, but if the reward is a wonderful day of absolute relax in a fantastic resort, then everything is easier!

Ijen Resort and Villas has the perfect set up for a post-climbing night! Overlooking the rice terraces and surrounded by rainforest, the views over the 4 mountains of Ijen complex are spectacular, the infinity pool is a perfect relief for your tired muscles and there are even a spa and a delicious restaurant. The rooms are spacious and the beds super comfortable! Exactly what is needed for a good rest! Let the lovely staff pamper you all day long and get ready for one of the other many excursions on offer in the surrounding area! East Java is in fact home of the Asia biggest Savannah! In stark contrast with the lush green scenery found elsewhere in Java, Bularan National Park, also known Little Africa, is home of many species like water buffalos, deers, peacocks and macaques (no lions and giraffes sorry!)

 

Not the classic Indonesia weather: what to bring?

Used to Indonesian tropical weather and warm temperature? Forget it! Here is real mountain stuff! The hike of Mount Ijen is a fantastic experience but it can turn into a nightmare if you come not prepared.

No matter whether you are in the world, at 2,799 meters of altitude temperatures drop and it gets cold up there! Dress up with several layers (like an onion), long socks, beanie and gloves are recommended and bring a change with you because you are going to sweat during the hike!

Gas masks can easily be rented once at Ijen or if you get a guide, he/she will bring it for you!

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Nias: surfers’ heaven of barrels

Nias: surfers’ heaven of barrels

Nias: surfers’ heaven of barrels

In Nias, there is always a rainbow. In Nias, there is always a wave. Pro Surfers look for a 6-8ft South Swell at 220 degrees and 18 sec to jump on the first flight and go to catch the barrels of their life. But you can really surf all year round and outside peak season you might be able to score really good waves with just a few locals.

The wave has easy access through the famous keyhole, which allows surfers to reach the lineup hair-dry. Nias is a deep water wave and it’s really rare to hit the bottom unless the wave is really big and the wipeout very gnarly. If you get smashed you can easily get back to the channel or head towards the reefy shore. The winds are very rare in North Sumatra and when they are on they are still light, so the wave is always surfable.

The tsunami that hit Indonesia in 2005 and destroyed the village of Sorake has actually determined an improvement in the quality of the wave! Nias now barrels at all tides and all sizes! The tube is almond shaped and represents perfection at its best.

The heads of turtles pop up from the water and the rain showers appear at the horizon. The sunsets are pink and the blue sky seems painted. Not only Nias is one of the best 10 waves in the world, but its tropical palm trees background is also the best set up for surfing photos and unforgettable memories.

In Nias, everybody smiles and the kids rip on their half broken boards. They have not a lot, but their lives are fulfilled with the ocean. The line-up can get crowded but here it’s all about share and respect. If you wait your turn everyone will cheer you up and the stoke will be next level!

Handy Tips:

 

 

  • Bring some spare stuff with you. Local boys love to receive some presents like wax, leashes, fins or even an old board. There are no surf shops here and a help to the local surfing community is always greatly appreciated!
  • Get ready to be surfed out. The wave is just too perfect and you will want to stay in the water all day long. So bring a bunch of sunscreens, Lycra and surf hat for the hottest hours (it would probably still be pumping!), a ding repair kit and some spare equipment!
  • Get hydrated with the many coconuts kids offer you at the beach!
  • If you have a bit of adventure other waves can be accessed, but they are still quite far and some of them not so easy to reach.
  • During your stay take a few lay-hours and head to one of the Ancient Villages of the area. Nias has one of the most ancient Megalithic Cultures on Earth. Stone jumping is a typical tradition for the young boys to prove their manhood and consists of a jump of a 6ft stone.

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Save the reef and enjoy the ride

Save the reef and enjoy the ride

SAVE THE REEF and ENJOY the RIDE

We love surfing, don’t we? But I think I can talk for the majority of surfers when I say that one of the reasons why we love surfing so much is the gorgeous environment that surrounds us!

The clarity of the water, the colourful fish swimming around, the beautiful coral heads where we have left that slice of skin.

Sometimes we forget that some products that we use to go surfing can actually arm this amazing eco-system.

So, is it possible to enjoy our rides without arming the ocean? Our society is continuous development and fortunately, there are some beautiful souls thinking about making us be eco-friendly surfers.

Reef-friendly sunscreens are the first step to stay green practising what we love!

 

It’s essential to protect your skin from damaging sun-rays, but we need to be aware of how toxic chemicals from many sunscreens are a contributing factor to the demise of our oceans coral ecosystem!

In July of 2018, Hawaii became the first U.S. state to ban the sale of sunscreens containing two common chemicals, oxybenzone (benzophenone-3) and octinoxate (octyl methoxycinnamate), which many researchers worldwide have deemed potentially harmful to aquatic life.

Some studies have also raised concerns that mineral (zinc and titanium-based) sunscreens containing nanoparticles which have the capability to damage reefs because they are so small they can damage the reproduction capabilities of some fish and be harmful to phytoplankton.

Personally, I have chosen CocoAloha for my surf sessions!

CocoAloha is passionate about raising awareness around this vital global issue. It was created by Gita a passionate surfer girl who suffered from a skin condition due to a hormonal imbalance and intense sun exposure known as Melasma. This condition made her understand how important it was to protect her skin on a daily basis and eventually inspired the creation of CocoAloha.

CocoAloha protects and nourishes your skin with a unique blend of wild- harvested Annatto Seeds from Hawaii & Thanaka Powder from Southeast Asia. Lovingly crafted with organic ingredients, CocoAloha provides amazing sun-care for all ages during active water-sports, beach activities or just as daily sun protection.

Stays on for hours and doesn’t sting your eyes. CocoAloha is a chemical free product, making it safe for your skin and Mother Ocean!

CocoAloha is packed in aluminium and paper tube containers to reduce plastic use on our planet!

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