Inspirational Women Surfers

Inspirational Women Surfers

by | Oct 2, 2020 | Lifestyle, Outdoor Sports, Surf

INSPIRATIONAL WOMEN SURFERS

In a surfing scenario still quite dominated by men, year after year I see more girls in the line-up and the surfing level of women, in general, is getting really high!

Having girls in the water is a game-changer. It changes the whole session mood: more smiles and more respect for everyone!

Many times I have found myself as the only girl in the line-up with a bunch of guys (the majority of whom ripping) fighting to catch a few waves, doubting about my level or asking myself why I was the only girl there.

Well, as soon as I see another female face in the water, smiling at me and cheering me up, the whole session becomes funnier, I gain more confidence and catch more waves!

And of course, I love to watch videos of women surfing and get inspired by them! Here are my personal favourites: each of them has something special and inspire me in different ways.

Stephanie Gilmore – pure style

The way she flows is unique. Stephanie is probably the most elegant surfer you are gonna see out there. No matter if she is charging a big barrel or playing with her twin fin on a knee-high wave, her flow is incredibly clean, her style is supreme and she is the real shred queen. 

Watching her surfing just make you wanna grab the board and have fun in the water. She is always smiling and enjoying the ride as much as she can. 

7x World Surfing Champion, these achievements are just the demonstration of her undiscussed talent.

Laura Enever – the charger

Laura is a badass chick. With a great sense of humour and love for life, her surfing is all about adventures and challenges. She pushes her limits where many guys do not and she is truly inspiring.

Famous for her fearless big waves surfing, her latest documentary Undone shows the ride of some of the gnarliest and most dangerous waves in remote Australia.

She is definitely not a faint of heart and she is really empowering women to push their limits and boundaries for thrill and adrenaline.

Carissa Moore – perfect technique

When someone says there are still differences in surfing between men and women I just bring Carissa as a perfect example that it’s not like that.

Last October I was in the water with her at Honolua Bay (she probably won’t remember hahaha). She was charging at the Cave, always with a smile on her face and she really looks like a super nice kind-hearted person. Pure positive vibes!

Her surfing technique is absolute perfection. If you pay attention to the details of her manoeuvres performance you barely find flaws, her style is smooth and her wave reading impeccable. 

Bethany Hamilton – the warrior

Survivor of a shark attack at the young age of 13 yr, Bethany made her dream of becoming a pro surfer come true no matter what.

Even without her left arm, her surfing is amazing, she charges big waves and she is one of the strongest person and athlete ever. She knows what she is doing out there and she even surfed Pipeline while pregnant!

Nothing could limit her on her goals and purposes and she has become a true inspiration for many people and an example of resilience, strength of will and mental power. 

Sally Fitzgibbons – health and fitness queen

Altruistic and energetic, Sally reminds everyone of the importance of effective training behind great performances. She is strong, fit and powerful in the water.

Sporty since early ages, she ran to gold medals in the 800m and 1500m at the Youth Olympics in 2007 and then became a professional surfer in the WSL.

She is an inspiration not only between the surfing community but also all the whole Australian people. She shares her knowledge about health through targeted fitness programs, cooking recipes and healthy lifestyle tips.

Would you like to join us on a girls-only surf trip?

Morocco: the land of the right-hand point breaks

Morocco: the land of the right-hand point breaks

by | Feb 20, 2020 | Outdoor Sports, Surf, Travel

Morocco: the land of the right-hand point breaks

Traditions and modernity perfectly mix in this incredible country famous for its perfect long right-hand point breaks, where teas and flavours spice up your days!

As you soon as I get off the plane in Agadir I can smell Africa. The perfume of the spices fills up the air and the desert gets in my lungs and in my heart. I am driving along the coast to get to the surf town of Taghazout. I can see from my window the perfect lines coming from the open ocean to meet up with the rocky coastline creating those perfect right-handers this area is famous for.

I have been to this place in many occasions, but I am always stoked of how many different experiences I get every time I am here. This is actually my first trip during the peak of the winter swell season. The forecast looks good and the froth is high. I spend my last years dreaming about surfing these waves and still can’t believe I have finally made it! Luckily I brought my step-up surfboard along and now I just need to get into the mind-set of “being ready to charge”!

From Imsouane to Anza, a great variety of waves for all surfing levels!

Well, of course, to enjoy surfing Morocco at its best a bit of surfing experience is required. The world-renown Anchor is not a wave for everyone, especially when it gets double over-head. The competition is high. Many Moroccan surfers are shredding out there and surfers from all around the world come to chase it when it’s on!

Killers (my personal favourite) requires a long paddle to get out there and clean up sets are pretty much guaranteed in this swell magnet spot. Many people think it’s called Killers because it’s gnarly and gnarly it is! But the actual name comes from the fact that Killer Whales used to show up here at this spot, right in front of the cliff.

A good thing about this region is that point breaks work mainly on low tide and beach breaks on high tide! Anza is a great alternative for a different session! There is always a wave here even in the smaller days) and it’s super fun!

For beginner surfers, Crocs and Camel Beach deliver super fun easy waves where to practice your take-off and improve your skills and, up north, Imsouane is what every longboarder has always dreamt of!

When to go and what to do apart from surfing?

If you are an experienced surfer you want to visit Morocco in the winter season November to March! This is when the famous points turn into life and will deliver some of the best waves of your life. Be prepared for cold water (you would need a wetsuit, 4/3 for the less brave ones like me and 3/2 if you are already used to a bit of chill in the water), but nice air temperatures around 20 degrees Celsius and the famous mint teas will warm you up after the session! Outside the main season, there are still waves in Morocco! Swell magnet beach breaks North of Taghazout and South of Agadir are offering great waves during the summer months and Taghazout area is still alright for first-time beginner surfers!

When you are not surfing there are plenty of things to do and places to visit! A walk into Taghazout town during sunset hours is an experience not to be missed as some shopping time at Agadir Souk! On Wednesdays, the local market of Aourir (aka Banana Village) is wonderful (best place to buy dry fruits and spices)! Stop in the Mini Sahara on your way to Imsouane and jump from one of the rocks of the gorgeous Paradise Valley, an oasis in the middle of the desert and mountains!

Tips and tricks for an unforgettable trip!

Rent a car!

There is no better way to explore the area than having your own independent transportation. Don’t be shy and take that small dirty road that will take you to the most amazing corners!

Eat like a local!

Morocco is actually so organised. As soon as you get out of the water you will find in the car park many people selling mint tea, donuts, raspberries, crepes and other delicious stuff!

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Nias: surfers’ heaven of barrels

Nias: surfers’ heaven of barrels

by | Apr 12, 2019 | Outdoor Sports, Surf, Travel

Nias: surfers’ heaven of barrels

In Nias, there is always a rainbow. In Nias, there is always a wave. Pro Surfers look for a 6-8ft South Swell at 220 degrees and 18 sec to jump on the first flight and go to catch the barrels of their life. But you can really surf all year round and outside peak season you might be able to score really good waves with just a few locals.

The wave has easy access through the famous keyhole, which allows surfers to reach the lineup hair-dry. Nias is a deep water wave and it’s really rare to hit the bottom unless the wave is really big and the wipeout very gnarly. If you get smashed you can easily get back to the channel or head towards the reefy shore. The winds are very rare in North Sumatra and when they are on they are still light, so the wave is always surfable.

The tsunami that hit Indonesia in 2005 and destroyed the village of Sorake has actually determined an improvement in the quality of the wave! Nias now barrels at all tides and all sizes! The tube is almond shaped and represents perfection at its best.

The heads of turtles pop up from the water and the rain showers appear at the horizon. The sunsets are pink and the blue sky seems painted. Not only Nias is one of the best 10 waves in the world, but its tropical palm trees background is also the best set up for surfing photos and unforgettable memories.

In Nias, everybody smiles and the kids rip on their half broken boards. They have not a lot, but their lives are fulfilled with the ocean. The line-up can get crowded but here it’s all about share and respect. If you wait your turn everyone will cheer you up and the stoke will be next level!

Handy Tips:

 

 

  • Bring some spare stuff with you. Local boys love to receive some presents like wax, leashes, fins or even an old board. There are no surf shops here and a help to the local surfing community is always greatly appreciated!
  • Get ready to be surfed out. The wave is just too perfect and you will want to stay in the water all day long. So bring a bunch of sunscreens, Lycra and surf hat for the hottest hours (it would probably still be pumping!), a ding repair kit and some spare equipment!
  • Get hydrated with the many coconuts kids offer you at the beach!
  • If you have a bit of adventure other waves can be accessed, but they are still quite far and some of them not so easy to reach.
  • During your stay take a few lay-hours and head to one of the Ancient Villages of the area. Nias has one of the most ancient Megalithic Cultures on Earth. Stone jumping is a typical tradition for the young boys to prove their manhood and consists of a jump of a 6ft stone.

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Save the reef and enjoy the ride

Save the reef and enjoy the ride

by | Mar 18, 2019 | Lifestyle, Outdoor Sports, Surf

SAVE THE REEF and ENJOY the RIDE

We love surfing, don’t we? But I think I can talk for the majority of surfers when I say that one of the reasons why we love surfing so much is the gorgeous environment that surrounds us!

The clarity of the water, the colourful fish swimming around, the beautiful coral heads where we have left that slice of skin.

Sometimes we forget that some products that we use to go surfing can actually arm this amazing eco-system.

So, is it possible to enjoy our rides without arming the ocean? Our society is continuous development and fortunately, there are some beautiful souls thinking about making us be eco-friendly surfers.

Reef-friendly sunscreens are the first step to stay green practising what we love!

 

It’s essential to protect your skin from damaging sun-rays, but we need to be aware of how toxic chemicals from many sunscreens are a contributing factor to the demise of our oceans coral ecosystem!

In July of 2018, Hawaii became the first U.S. state to ban the sale of sunscreens containing two common chemicals, oxybenzone (benzophenone-3) and octinoxate (octyl methoxycinnamate), which many researchers worldwide have deemed potentially harmful to aquatic life.

Some studies have also raised concerns that mineral (zinc and titanium-based) sunscreens containing nanoparticles which have the capability to damage reefs because they are so small they can damage the reproduction capabilities of some fish and be harmful to phytoplankton.

Personally, I have chosen CocoAloha for my surf sessions!

CocoAloha is passionate about raising awareness around this vital global issue. It was created by Gita a passionate surfer girl who suffered from a skin condition due to a hormonal imbalance and intense sun exposure known as Melasma. This condition made her understand how important it was to protect her skin on a daily basis and eventually inspired the creation of CocoAloha.

CocoAloha protects and nourishes your skin with a unique blend of wild- harvested Annatto Seeds from Hawaii & Thanaka Powder from Southeast Asia. Lovingly crafted with organic ingredients, CocoAloha provides amazing sun-care for all ages during active water-sports, beach activities or just as daily sun protection.

Stays on for hours and doesn’t sting your eyes. CocoAloha is a chemical free product, making it safe for your skin and Mother Ocean!

CocoAloha is packed in aluminium and paper tube containers to reduce plastic use on our planet!

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The Ultimate Guide to Surf in the Mentawai

The Ultimate Guide to Surf in the Mentawai

by | Mar 1, 2019 | Outdoor Sports, Surf, Travel

The ultimate guide to surf in the mentawai

Close your eyes and imagine one of those photos and videos about the most perfect possible wave. No, it’s not a wave pool, or better, it is, but it’s a natural one.

The Mentawai Islands in Indonesia are renown worldwide among surfers for having the most perfect waves on Earth and they are immersed in such a beautiful tropical paradise that it looks almost unreal. 

The many legendary world-class breaks around Mentawai handle different swell and wind combination, which makes this area a year-round surfing destination for all surfing levels.

Where are the Mentawai:

The Mentawai Islands are a chain of about seventy idyllic tropical islands located approximately 150 km off the western coast of Sumatra in Indonesia.

They can be divided into three main surfing regions:

  • North Islands: The majority of the spots are located around the islets south of Siberut, in an area called Playground. This is also the most crowded region, due to the presence of many camps and easier accessibility from Padang via public ferries, but the variety and quality of waves are excellent.
  • Central Islands: push yourself a bit more south and get lost in paradise. Sipura is the main island and home of legendary waves as Lance’s Left and HT. 
  • South Islands: What you come for is Macas, the only wave in the Mentawai with limited access to a certain amount of surfers. This area is still very pristine and not so developed. Not a lot of charters push themselves until the far south and when they do surf sessions with your friends only are guaranteed.

Photos by Megan Costello  –  @avalanchevocals 

When to go:

Mentawai are a year-round surf destination due to their exposure and swell consistency. There isn’t a No time to go! Every season has something to offer. While low season (December to March) can be perfect for beginners and prime season (May to September) is the every charger dream (with average swells of 7ft, long periods and high percentage of forecasted 5 star rated days), Shoulder Months are the best pick for intermediate to advanced surfers that want to stay away from the crowds and still score fantastic waves!

How to get there:

Padang is the international airport where you would have to arrive. Daily flights land here from Kuala Lumpur and Jakarta. Garuda Indonesia is the best airline company based on punctuality and free surfboard allowance! Surf charters depart from Padang harbour during the late afternoon to undertake the crossing during the night. If you have chosen to stay in a land-based camp, Fast ferry boats leave the city of Padang every day. If you choose public transfer ferries try to do it on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays to get the best rates. Arrive in Padang the day before your Ferry departure day!

Getting Around:

Although dozen land camps have been established in the past few years and many more are planned, the best way to get around Mentawai is no doubt a charter boat. Long distance travelling is mainly done at night to be able to be at the surf spot already at dawn. All charter boats have a dinghy to drop you on and off the surf spot. Surf charters offer unrivalled flexibility to be in the right place at the right time and to surf from dawn to dusk.

What is the Mentawai Tax:

To surf in the Mentawai you need to pay a Tax. The Mentawai Tax has been introduced by Mentawai’s governor to benefit the local community and it requires each surfer to pay 1 Million Rupiah (around US$75) upon visiting the region. The tax lasts for 15 days, but it’s extendable, in case you want to stay longer. The Tax has been thought to improve management of carrying capacities of surfers in each region, reduce overcrowding, and improve the overall experience of visiting surfers.

Handy Hints:

Bring spare equipment

Spare surfboards, tropical wax, leashes, fins, ding repair kit are an essential here! Remember that you will be in a remote area, there are no shops around here!  Do not forget the sunscreen and even a surfing hat for the hottest hours!

Disconnect from the world!

Phone signal and internet are very rare and limited too few resorts or areas only. What a better way to rest your mind from the busy city life? We are for surfing and we can post that barrel surf pic on Instagram once we are already on our way home

Find a group of your same level! 

The Mentawai Islands are a surfing paradise and offer waves for every surf skill and taste! Once there you really want to surf the best suitable wave for your expectation and don’t want to find yourself watching the others getting barrelled in triple overhead sets or, opposite, have to surf mellow longboard waves if you went to score! Try to find out the level of the group and join accordingly.

Better with big waves! 

Don’t be scared of big waves. Having a big swell means that all spots are working, so many more options for everyone and fewer crowds! Small days can mean a bunch of surf charters surfing the same swell magnet spot!

Respect the surfing etiquette!

Be friendly and respect others! We have all travelled a long way to score these perfect waves!

The most famous WAVES (from South to North!)

 

The Hole:

Gnarly left mincing machine, it starts barrelling off the take-off and never really stops until the closeout section. The Hole needs very specific conditions to make it safe enough to surf.

Thunders:

Named for the raising noise it makes, it’s the most consistent left in the Mentawai and it’s always bigger than how it looks. Nice and deep at all time, it’s at the same time powerful and heavy and requires a bigger board to make the drop.

Roxies:

Forgiving and heavy at the same time, this fun right-hander breaks in deep water on a flat reef and delivers proper open barrels when it gets overhead.

Greenbush:

Super hollow left for tube masters only! It’s fast and shallow, needs a lot of speed and commitment to make it out!

Macaronis:

Voted the most rippable and funniest wave in the world, Macas Left is a machine, predictable, perfect and challenging at the same time!

Lance’s Left:

The sister of HT is a long left that delivers some barrels and thrilling rides with overhead swells.

HT:

Hollow Tree or Lance’s Right is the classic Mentawai right barrel, mechanically perfect. Be careful in the inside, where the shallowness of the Surgeon Table awaits.

Scarecrowds:

Left-hander with different sections, fun rippable and wedgy alike with plenty of water depth.

Telescope:

World-class left-hander with a steep take-off that allows you to enter in a flawless tube. It’s predictable, deep and long, suitable for intermediate and advanced surfers alike.

Iceland:

Named so for the watercolour after the wave breaks leaving a fizz of air bubbles in the water, Iceland is powerful and moody and delivers a cavernous barrel when the swell is big. When everywhere else is flat, here you will still find a rippable wall.

Rifles:

Race on the most perfect right of the Mentawai, or even of the world. Rifles it’s all about hollow barrels and straight-line speed!

A Frames:

Short right and playful left in a beautiful set up right in front of an idyllic island.

4 Bobs:

Fun right-hander for the less intrepid surfers, with a whackable wall and deep water.

No Kandui:

Probably the most difficult and technically demanding left in the Mentawai, No Kandui is super fast and works better with large swells. You will be rewarded with the best barrel of your life if you have the guts to paddle for it!

Bankvaults:

Fear-inducing right-hander for chargers only, it gets better when it’s double overhead.

Nipussi:

Juicy right-hander that gets the end of Bankvaults swell train. It breaks in deep water and produces barrels even in a very little swell.

Hideaways:

Big, hollow and shallow, this intimidating left-hander is suitable for advanced surfers only and change its shape depending on tide and swell.

Burgerworld:

Point break right-hander with a long workable wall. It’s a swell magnet and you always find a wave here even when everywhere else is flat. No words can describe the beautiful background making this the perfect spot for the classic Indo photos.

Pitstops:

Laid-back vibes for this super fun right-hander that breaks over flat reef and sands for over 100 mt. Perfect wave to practice manoeuvres and eventually a little cover-up.

Ebay:

Spectacular and barreling world-class left with a vertical drop and a race to the exit. Short but spice ride, bigger the swell, better it gets. Watch out from the two rocks in the inside.

Beng Bengs:

Friendly and playful left-hander mechanical and rippable that works with all sizes also when other waves are not on. Best at low tide, watch out for the sharp reef on the inside!

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Taiwan: a surfing well-kept secret

Taiwan: a surfing well-kept secret

by | Dec 3, 2018 | Outdoor Sports, Surf, Travel

Taiwan: a surfing well-kept secret

For all the adventurous surfers who are willing to push their limits a bit further, Taiwan is still a pristine waves heaven! 

Are you full?

Yes, I am full.

That’s the way Taiwanese people will ask you if you are doing well. They definitely like eating and I could see that when Oma, my indigenous friend and surf guide, ordered a portion of buffalo enough to fulfil an entire family with ten kids. We were just three thought, the food was delicious, we didn’t make it to the line up afterwards.

There are 14 aboriginal tribes in Taiwan. Oma comes from Amis. They do eat all the part of the animal and no kidding: on the table, there was not only the intestine but even the heart of the buffalo. Worth a try, not my favourite, but I am still trying to do what locals do, as I think I would like people to do the same in my country and not be fussy in picking their food.

Taiwan, a very interesting country. Have you ever thought to go there? Personally not. It’s not one of those classic destinations in the bucket list of normal travellers or, even less, surfers.

Local people barely speak English, well they actually don’t speak English at all: the majority of tourism there is still Chinese, no matter the ban from the Chinese Government not to travel to Taiwan, who was emitted loudly a few years ago, and silently revoked! Taiwanese still smile all the times and try to ask you questions, even if they don’t understand the answers. Google translate is a good way for quick communication.

Everyone speaks Mandarin. I have been told that you need to know at least 300 symbols to be able to start a conversation, 1,000 to speak already quite fluently. It’s all about logic, each symbol is a syllable. Combining syllables you obtain words. Sounds a freaking mess right? I guess it is!

Taiwanese Street Food: a must try! But what about Stinky Tofu?

Night markets offer the greatest variety of products and dishes. The stinky tofu is a classic. Gorgonzola and Blue Cheese are nothing comparable, I swear. You kind of want to try it (I told you, I always want to try everything), but this was just too much. I couldn’t do it. The smell actually remained in my nostrils for a few days. Better opt for a classic: dumpling, chicken, fish soup, Taiwanese bbq and much more on offer in the street stands!

Are there waves in Taiwan? I would rather say no to keep those gems secret and uncrowded. But the truth is yes, the waves are absolutely amazing, with a huge variety all over the coast, from river mouths to point breaks, reefs and beaches.

The cobblestones are pretty much everywhere. They sound like a twinkle when you put your head under the water to duck dive. A unique feeling for your ears, like in a fairy tale. The watercolour can be stunning too unless it has just rained the day before (then it get pretty nasty). The peaks change their colour, the turquoise/aquamarine green is in sharp contrast with the grey that comes from the river.

If you are lucky enough to get a typhoon swell with the right wind direction, you might score the waves of your life..by yourself of course!

Keep in mind that waves have no easy access and are not often easy to find. If you really want to get the best out of it, go on a surf tour with local experts! I went surfing with Virginia and James of Surf Travel Taiwan and absolutely liked their services and local knowledge.

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