The Ultimate Guide to Surf in the Mentawai

The Ultimate Guide to Surf in the Mentawai

The ultimate guide to surf in the mentawai

Close your eyes and imagine one of those photos and videos about the most perfect possible wave. No, it’s not a wave pool, or better, it is, but it’s a natural one.

The Mentawai Islands in Indonesia are renown worldwide among surfers for having the most perfect waves on Earth and they are immersed in such a beautiful tropical paradise that it looks almost unreal. 

The many legendary world-class breaks around Mentawai handle different swell and wind combination, which makes this area a year-round surfing destination for all surfing levels.

Where are the Mentawai:

The Mentawai Islands are a chain of about seventy idyllic tropical islands located approximately 150 km off the western coast of Sumatra in Indonesia.

They can be divided into three main surfing regions:

  • North Islands: The majority of the spots are located around the islets south of Siberut, in an area called Playground. This is also the most crowded region, due to the presence of many camps and easier accessibility from Padang via public ferries, but the variety and quality of waves are excellent.
  • Central Islands: push yourself a bit more south and get lost in paradise. Sipura is the main island and home of legendary waves as Lance’s Left and HT. 
  • South Islands: What you come for is Macas, the only wave in the Mentawai with limited access to a certain amount of surfers. This area is still very pristine and not so developed. Not a lot of charters push themselves until the far south and when they do surf sessions with your friends only are guaranteed.

Photos by Megan Costello  –  @avalanchevocals 

When to go:

Mentawai are a year-round surf destination due to their exposure and swell consistency. There isn’t a No time to go! Every season has something to offer. While low season (December to March) can be perfect for beginners and prime season (May to September) is the every charger dream (with average swells of 7ft, long periods and high percentage of forecasted 5 star rated days), Shoulder Months are the best pick for intermediate to advanced surfers that want to stay away from the crowds and still score fantastic waves!

How to get there:

Padang is the international airport where you would have to arrive. Daily flights land here from Kuala Lumpur and Jakarta. Garuda Indonesia is the best airline company based on punctuality and free surfboard allowance! Surf charters depart from Padang harbour during the late afternoon to undertake the crossing during the night. If you have chosen to stay in a land-based camp, Fast ferry boats leave the city of Padang every day. If you choose public transfer ferries try to do it on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays to get the best rates. Arrive in Padang the day before your Ferry departure day!

Getting Around:

Although dozen land camps have been established in the past few years and many more are planned, the best way to get around Mentawai is no doubt a charter boat. Long distance travelling is mainly done at night to be able to be at the surf spot already at dawn. All charter boats have a dinghy to drop you on and off the surf spot. Surf charters offer unrivalled flexibility to be in the right place at the right time and to surf from dawn to dusk.

What is the Mentawai Tax:

To surf in the Mentawai you need to pay a Tax. The Mentawai Tax has been introduced by Mentawai’s governor to benefit the local community and it requires each surfer to pay 1 Million Rupiah (around US$75) upon visiting the region. The tax lasts for 15 days, but it’s extendable, in case you want to stay longer. The Tax has been thought to improve management of carrying capacities of surfers in each region, reduce overcrowding, and improve the overall experience of visiting surfers.

Handy Hints:

Bring spare equipment

Spare surfboards, tropical wax, leashes, fins, ding repair kit are an essential here! Remember that you will be in a remote area, there are no shops around here!  Do not forget the sunscreen and even a surfing hat for the hottest hours!

Disconnect from the world!

Phone signal and internet are very rare and limited too few resorts or areas only. What a better way to rest your mind from the busy city life? We are for surfing and we can post that barrel surf pic on Instagram once we are already on our way home

Find a group of your same level! 

The Mentawai Islands are a surfing paradise and offer waves for every surf skill and taste! Once there you really want to surf the best suitable wave for your expectation and don’t want to find yourself watching the others getting barrelled in triple overhead sets or, opposite, have to surf mellow longboard waves if you went to score! Try to find out the level of the group and join accordingly.

Better with big waves

Don’t be scared of big waves. Having a big swell means that all spots are working, so many more options for everyone and fewer crowds! Small days can mean a bunch of surf charters surfing the same swell magnet spot!

Respect the surfing etiquette!

Be friendly and respect others! We have all travelled a long way to score these perfect waves!

The most famous WAVES (from South to North!)

 

The Hole:

Gnarly left mincing machine, it starts barrelling off the take-off and never really stops until the closeout section. The Hole needs very specific conditions to make it safe enough to surf.

Thunders:

Named for the raising noise it makes, it’s the most consistent left in the Mentawai and it’s always bigger than how it looks. Nice and deep at all time, it’s at the same time powerful and heavy and requires a bigger board to make the drop.

Roxies:

Forgiving and heavy at the same time, this fun right-hander breaks in deep water on a flat reef and delivers proper open barrels when it gets overhead.

Greenbush:

Super hollow left for tube masters only! It’s fast and shallow, needs a lot of speed and commitment to make it out!

Macaronis:

Voted the most rippable and funniest wave in the world, Macas Left is a machine, predictable, perfect and challenging at the same time!

Lance’s Left:

The sister of HT is a long left that delivers some barrels and thrilling rides with overhead swells.

HT:

Hollow Tree or Lance’s Right is the classic Mentawai right barrel, mechanically perfect. Be careful in the inside, where the shallowness of the Surgeon Table awaits.

Scarecrowds:

Left-hander with different sections, fun rippable and wedgy alike with plenty of water depth.

Telescope:

World-class left-hander with a steep take-off that allows you to enter in a flawless tube. It’s predictable, deep and long, suitable for intermediate and advanced surfers alike.

Iceland:

Named so for the watercolour after the wave breaks leaving a fizz of air bubbles in the water, Iceland is powerful and moody and delivers a cavernous barrel when the swell is big. When everywhere else is flat, here you will still find a rippable wall.

Rifles:

Race on the most perfect right of the Mentawai, or even of the world. Rifles it’s all about hollow barrels and straight-line speed!

A Frames:

Short right and playful left in a beautiful set up right in front of an idyllic island.

4 Bobs:

Fun right-hander for the less intrepid surfers, with a whackable wall and deep water.

No Kandui:

Probably the most difficult and technically demanding left in the Mentawai, No Kandui is super fast and works better with large swells. You will be rewarded with the best barrel of your life if you have the guts to paddle for it!

Bankvaults:

Fear-inducing right-hander for chargers only, it gets better when it’s double overhead.

Nipussi:

Juicy right-hander that gets the end of Bankvaults swell train. It breaks in deep water and produces barrels even in a very little swell.

Hideaways:

Big, hollow and shallow, this intimidating left-hander is suitable for advanced surfers only and change its shape depending on tide and swell.

Burgerworld:

Point break right-hander with a long workable wall. It’s a swell magnet and you always find a wave here even when everywhere else is flat. No words can describe the beautiful background making this the perfect spot for the classic Indo photos.

Pitstops:

Laid-back vibes for this super fun right-hander that breaks over flat reef and sands for over 100 mt. Perfect wave to practice manoeuvres and eventually a little cover-up.

Ebay:

Spectacular and barreling world-class left with a vertical drop and a race to the exit. Short but spice ride, bigger the swell, better it gets. Watch out from the two rocks in the inside.

Beng Bengs:

Friendly and playful left-hander mechanical and rippable that works with all sizes also when other waves are not on. Best at low tide, watch out for the sharp reef on the inside!

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Taiwan: a surfing well-kept secret

Taiwan: a surfing well-kept secret

Taiwan: a surfing well-kept secret

For all the adventurous surfers who are willing to push their limits a bit further, Taiwan is still a pristine waves heaven! 

Are you full?

Yes, I am full.

That’s the way Taiwanese people will ask you if you are doing well. They definitely like eating and I could see that when Oma, my indigenous friend and surf guide, ordered a portion of buffalo enough to fulfil an entire family with ten kids. We were just three thought, the food was delicious, we didn’t make it to the line up afterwards.

There are 14 aboriginal tribes in Taiwan. Oma comes from Amis. They do eat all the part of the animal and no kidding: on the table, there was not only the intestine but even the heart of the buffalo. Worth a try, not my favourite, but I am still trying to do what locals do, as I think I would like people to do the same in my country and not be fussy in picking their food.

Taiwan, a very interesting country. Have you ever thought to go there? Personally not. It’s not one of those classic destinations in the bucket list of normal travellers or, even less, surfers.

Local people barely speak English, well they actually don’t speak English at all: the majority of tourism there is still Chinese, no matter the ban from the Chinese Government not to travel to Taiwan, who was emitted loudly a few years ago, and silently revoked! Taiwanese still smile all the times and try to ask you questions, even if they don’t understand the answers. Google translate is a good way for quick communication.

Everyone speaks Mandarin. I have been told that you need to know at least 300 symbols to be able to start a conversation, 1,000 to speak already quite fluently. It’s all about logic, each symbol is a syllable. Combining syllables you obtain words. Sounds a freaking mess right? I guess it is!

Taiwanese Street Food: a must try! But what about Stinky Tofu?

Night markets offer the greatest variety of products and dishes. The stinky tofu is a classic. Gorgonzola and Blue Cheese are nothing comparable, I swear. You kind of want to try it (I told you, I always want to try everything), but this was just too much. I couldn’t do it. The smell actually remained in my nostrils for a few days. Better opt for a classic: dumpling, chicken, fish soup, Taiwanese bbq and much more on offer in the street stands!

Are there waves in Taiwan? I would rather say no to keep those gems secret and uncrowded. But the truth is yes, the waves are absolutely amazing, with a huge variety all over the coast, from river mouths to point breaks, reefs and beaches.

The cobblestones are pretty much everywhere. They sound like a twinkle when you put your head under the water to duck dive. A unique feeling for your ears, like in a fairy tale. The watercolour can be stunning too unless it has just rained the day before (then it get pretty nasty). The peaks change their colour, the turquoise/aquamarine green is in sharp contrast with the grey that comes from the river.

If you are lucky enough to get a typhoon swell with the right wind direction, you might score the waves of your life..by yourself of course!

Keep in mind that waves have no easy access and are not often easy to find. If you really want to get the best out of it, go on a surf tour with local experts! I went surfing with Virginia and James of Surf Travel Taiwan and absolutely liked their services and local knowledge.

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Bula Vinaka – Sail and Surf in Fiji

Bula Vinaka – Sail and Surf in Fiji

Bula Vinaka – Fijian sailing diaries

Bula Vinaka! This is how Fijian people welcome you on their islands with a big smile on their face. It’s hard to believe that less than 200 years ago this population of kind people were eating each other! Luckily, the arrival of missionaries stopped this era of cannibalism. Today Fiji is a long way from its, sometimes, brutal past.

We are still alive though: no arm missing, no human bbq, few sharks spotted, some reef cuts, quite a few broken boards, world-class waves, a lot of laughter, many shooting stars, and heaps of dreams coming true.

We boarded on Fantasea, our sailing boat for the next week, feeling a bit like pirates when the sail raised and our journey began. The cross from Nadi to Mamanucas took a couple of hours. It is not so long, probably way faster with a speedboat, but we enjoyed the scenery, felt the wind caring our hair and we slowly reached one the of every surfer dream waves: Cloudbreak.

Cloudbreak, Cloudy as locals call it, is one of the 10 Best/Most challenging waves in the world. It’s fast, shallow and hollow. It breaks in the middle of nowhere, in an outer reef recognisable just from a wooden tower that was built right in front of the wave, for spectators (arriving by boat on high tide only) who would like to see the show. Cloudy is sketchy, charming and perfect at the same time.

When we arrived the swell was still small (1-2 ft means head high there), the waves were fun, the water crystal clear, turtles and colourful fish swam around us all day.

The wind was still on. The trade winds are quite disturbing and strong during the surfing season here. The waves are very exposed, but if you are lucky and the wind swings in the right direction, then you will score.

We spent quite a few days in Cloudbreak, the swell was picking up slowly, which meant more challenging sessions, day after day.

On my fourth session, I ended up with a broken board and a black eye from the hit. Time for me to enjoy the show and watch the guys scoring probably the biggest waves of their life. We surfed many more waves on the rest of the trip. The area of Mamanucas includes other fantastic breaks as Restaurants, Swimming Pools, Wilkes, Tavarua Right, Namotu Left and Desperation. The distance from one wave to the other is short, the reef is always sharp, the water always clear and the underwater world always alive.

I hope to have made you dream a bit. So, here are some personal tips to make the best of your trip:

  • Get on a boat and enjoy the sailor life. You can get off in some islands, which are not completely private, but being in the water is the best way to move around. We sailed on Fantasea and had a great time!
  • Find a good crew. Sharing a boat can be tough if you are doing it with the wrong persons. Find a group of friends with your same surfing level and depart for the trip of your dreams. Our crew was very mixed and we had the best time! We were 2 Italians, 2 Argentinian, 1 German, 1 Swedish, 1 Hawaiian and 1 Hungarian.
  • Pamper yourself with a bit of relaxation in one of the amazing resorts of the archipelago. My personal favourite: Six Senses Fiji
  • Try Kava. This is a unique and traditional Fijian experience. The drink itself is special, but even more special is the ritual ceremony that it involves.
  • Explore the next level of tastes with the local cousin. My favourite: Kokoda (Fiji’s version of ceviche, enriched with coconut milk)
  • Interact with people: Fijian people are amazing, they always smile and really want to be your friends. They all speak really good English, and they love to share moments and experiences!
  • Don’t forget to purchase travel insurance, better safe than sorry!

 

Photos by Balint Hambalko

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Breath Holding and Surf Survival Apnea

Breath Holding and Surf Survival Apnea

Breath holding and Surf survival apnea

It’s not physical, just psychological. No, you are not drowning. Stop be scared and get out there!

I have always been a bit scared about the idea of having long hold downs while trying to chase bigger waves and getting smashed and dragged down and more down. The movie Chasing Mavericks already put in my mind the idea of breath training, but somehow I related it to very big waves, definitely not what I was going for. But you actually don’t need to chase 30-foot face waves to find an excuse to learn how to manage your breath. So, I have decided to attend a Surf Survival Apnea Course. Since then, I haven’t had the feeling of being about to die under the water anymore. And I have also decided to surf bigger waves!

Photos by Megan Costello  –  @avalanchevocals 

Survival Apnea gives you the understanding of what the human body and mind go through when underwater on a single breath. It also raises awareness of the importance of connecting with nature, mental strength and physical preparation when engaging with elements.

At the course, I have learned to pay attention to what is going on around me, in my mind and in my body. I have discovered that the urge to breath is a normal feeling due to the rising levels of CO2 and it doesn’t mean I am drowning. I have learned several exercises to improve my skills of breath control and awareness. I have gained the ability to control the situation and do not panic.

Through training, progressive exposure and self-awareness anyone can develop physical & mental adaptations that will help get through the next challenge easier.

Interested in taking part in a Survival Apnea Course?

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