Bula Vinaka – Sail and Surf in Fiji

Bula Vinaka – Sail and Surf in Fiji

by | Oct 30, 2018 | Outdoor Sports, Surf, Travel

Bula Vinaka – Fijian sailing diaries

Bula Vinaka! This is how Fijian people welcome you on their islands with a big smile on their face. It’s hard to believe that less than 200 years ago this population of kind people were eating each other! Luckily, the arrival of missionaries stopped this era of cannibalism. Today Fiji is a long way from its, sometimes, brutal past.

We are still alive though: no arm missing, no human bbq, few sharks spotted, some reef cuts, quite a few broken boards, world-class waves, a lot of laughter, many shooting stars, and heaps of dreams coming true.

We boarded on Fantasea, our sailing boat for the next week, feeling a bit like pirates when the sail raised and our journey began. The cross from Nadi to Mamanucas took a couple of hours. It is not so long, probably way faster with a speedboat, but we enjoyed the scenery, felt the wind caring our hair and we slowly reached one the of every surfer dream waves: Cloudbreak.

Cloudbreak, Cloudy as locals call it, is one of the 10 Best/Most challenging waves in the world. It’s fast, shallow and hollow. It breaks in the middle of nowhere, in an outer reef recognisable just from a wooden tower that was built right in front of the wave, for spectators (arriving by boat on high tide only) who would like to see the show. Cloudy is sketchy, charming and perfect at the same time.

When we arrived the swell was still small (1-2 ft means head high there), the waves were fun, the water crystal clear, turtles and colourful fish swam around us all day.

The wind was still on. The trade winds are quite disturbing and strong during the surfing season here. The waves are very exposed, but if you are lucky and the wind swings in the right direction, then you will score.

We spent quite a few days in Cloudbreak, the swell was picking up slowly, which meant more challenging sessions, day after day.

On my fourth session, I ended up with a broken board and a black eye from the hit. Time for me to enjoy the show and watch the guys scoring probably the biggest waves of their life. We surfed many more waves on the rest of the trip. The area of Mamanucas includes other fantastic breaks as Restaurants, Swimming Pools, Wilkes, Tavarua Right, Namotu Left and Desperation. The distance from one wave to the other is short, the reef is always sharp, the water always clear and the underwater world always alive.

I hope to have made you dream a bit. So, here are some personal tips to make the best of your trip:

  • Get on a boat and enjoy the sailor life. You can get off in some islands, which are not completely private, but being in the water is the best way to move around. We sailed on Fantasea and had a great time!
  • Find a good crew. Sharing a boat can be tough if you are doing it with the wrong persons. Find a group of friends with your same surfing level and depart for the trip of your dreams. Our crew was very mixed and we had the best time! We were 2 Italians, 2 Argentinian, 1 German, 1 Swedish, 1 Hawaiian and 1 Hungarian.
  • Pamper yourself with a bit of relaxation in one of the amazing resorts of the archipelago. My personal favourite: Six Senses Fiji
  • Try Kava. This is a unique and traditional Fijian experience. The drink itself is special, but even more special is the ritual ceremony that it involves.
  • Explore the next level of tastes with the local cousin. My favourite: Kokoda (Fiji’s version of ceviche, enriched with coconut milk)
  • Interact with people: Fijian people are amazing, they always smile and really want to be your friends. They all speak really good English, and they love to share moments and experiences!
  • Don’t forget to purchase travel insurance, better safe than sorry!

 

Photos by Balint Hambalko

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Breath Holding and Surf Survival Apnea

Breath Holding and Surf Survival Apnea

by | Oct 23, 2018 | Outdoor Sports, Surf

Breath holding and Surf survival apnea

It’s not physical, just psychological. No, you are not drowning. Stop be scared and get out there!

I have always been a bit scared about the idea of having long hold downs while trying to chase bigger waves and getting smashed and dragged down and more down. The movie Chasing Mavericks already put in my mind the idea of breath training, but somehow I related it to very big waves, definitely not what I was going for. But you actually don’t need to chase 30-foot face waves to find an excuse to learn how to manage your breath. So, I have decided to attend a Surf Survival Apnea Course. Since then, I haven’t had the feeling of being about to die under the water anymore. And I have also decided to surf bigger waves!

Photos by Megan Costello  –  @avalanchevocals 

Survival Apnea gives you the understanding of what the human body and mind go through when underwater on a single breath. It also raises awareness of the importance of connecting with nature, mental strength and physical preparation when engaging with elements.

At the course, I have learned to pay attention to what is going on around me, in my mind and in my body. I have discovered that the urge to breath is a normal feeling due to the rising levels of CO2 and it doesn’t mean I am drowning. I have learned several exercises to improve my skills of breath control and awareness. I have gained the ability to control the situation and do not panic.

Through training, progressive exposure and self-awareness anyone can develop physical & mental adaptations that will help get through the next challenge easier.

Interested in taking part in a Survival Apnea Course?

CLICK HERE

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Panama: not only a fiscal paradise

Panama: not only a fiscal paradise

by | Oct 10, 2018 | Travel

Panama: not only a fiscal paradise

Renown worldwide as a fiscal paradise, Panama has much more to offer than tax-free investments and money laundering.

From coffee plantations to unspoiled white beaches, from turquoise water to perfect barreling waves, the Country is pure beauty and diversity.

I lived in Panama for a while, working here and there, surfing a lot (as always) and exploring the country. I fell in love with the warmth of people, the way they talk and laugh, with the smell of the culantro early in the morning, when everyone prepares the typical soup sancocho to feed the whole family for the day, with looking for constellations in a sky untouched by light pollution, with scoring uncrowded barreling waves, with moving around on the back of a pick up, with the wilderness and an ecosystem full of biodiversity.

I would like to share with you my “must go” places, my favourites, the ones that I will always keep in my heart.

Panama City: everyone calls it “La Ciudad” or “PTY”, as the international airport. It’s the centre of Latin music scene, trades and history.

Everyone listen to reggaeton, all people dance, they have the rhythm inside. With its nameless roads, PTY is a city full of diversities: you can run in the Ocean Drive Miami style, step into the historical Casco Viejo, grab some fresh ceviche at the Mercado de Mariscos, visit the Panama Canal and find out the crazy mechanism that joins two oceans.

Magnolia Inn Hotel, located in the heart of the Old Town, is the perfect base to explore the area. The hotel is housed in a refurbished French-style colonial manor and offers either private and shared rooms.

Bocas del Toro: Caribbean Paradise: Surf, Dive and Explore!

Dreaming about a desert white beach, kind of a postcard of Caribbean? Here you are!
Houses have stilts over the water, the ocean is clear turquoise, food is delicious, the party is crazy, the waves are epic. Does it seem a paradise? It is!

The main island is Isla Colòn, home of the “biggest” town and of the centre of Bocas. On the opposite side on the urbanization, there is the world famous Playa Bluff, with its shore fat slab (be careful if you are not an experienced surfer) and Playa Estrella, named so from the massive gorgeous starfish which you can see without the need to dive.

Isla Careneros and Isla Bastimentos are much wilder islands, covered by palm trees, surrounded by great waves for all levels.

If you are on a budget and looking for nightlife and meeting new people, then Selina Bocas del Toro is the place where you want to stay. Do you want to get away from the hustle and enjoy the island life in comfort? Red Frog Beach Island Resort in Bastimentos is what you are looking for.

Santa Catalina: walk up and down the hills surrounded by fields to reach world-class waves or dive in the ex-prison of Isla Coiba, a wild and marvellous national park.

No internet, no phone signal. Or better, you can find some signal while walking up the hills to reach the surfing beaches. Santa Catalina still remains a rural place, very authentic and characteristic, and home of the world-class wave La Punta. The area is also famous for the great biodiversity of Isla Coiba, a National Park where, long time ago, the most feared criminals were put in prison (the island was in fact really difficult to reach and impossible to escape from as it was surrounded by big marine predators, like sharks and crocodiles).

Vila Coco, new boutique hotel, offers stylish and comfortable rooms just a short walk from the waves!

Boquete: hippie trekkers and bohemian artists meeting point!

You will fall in love with Boquete, its bohemian atmosphere, its chilled weather (it’s not really chilled but for sure much colder than any other place in Panama).

Hike Volcan Baru, discover trails to hidden waterfalls, learn the secrets of coffee plantations, try to spot the quetzal, go rafting and horse riding. One of my favourite things I have done in Boquete is a course of wood carving! You can ask about it at Arte Hostal, that would organize everything for you directly with David and his dad!

Playa Venao: half moon bay, black sand, barrels and wildlife.

Venao is my special place. No words can describe the beauty of this black beach. It is the tropical surfing beach of my dreams, where everyone in the lineup is super friendly and chilled, where you can let free your artist inspiration, where the sunsets are unique and people from all over the globe reunited. It still remains a niche for a few adventurous surf passionate, who do not care about technologies or amenities. Waves in the bay are unreal! In front of the river mouth, a right hander unrolls in perfect barrels, holding up big swells, at its best with incoming and outgoing tide.

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